If you’re wondering how to soften linen, this guide will cover everything you need to know. Sometimes new linen can feel a little stiff, or even itchy, depending on its quality and treatment, but this won’t last, especially with the right care.

The good news is that linen does naturally soften over time with regular wear, proper treatment, and washing, especially if you’ve bought a beautiful linen piece made from 100% European linen. This fabric is the ultimate in luxury, and it’s an investment that will look and feel beautiful for years to come with just a little knowledge.

In this deep dive, we’re going to explain how to soften linen clothes, some good approaches to soften linen quickly (perhaps if you’re planning to wear that beautiful new full-circle linen dress to a special event!), and how long it typically takes for linen to become soft on a regular care schedule.

 

Why linen can feel stiff or scratchy at first

Linen can feel stiff or scratchy at first because it’s made from natural flax fibers, composed mainly of smooth, straight cellulose. According to research by Gunta Zommere at Riga Technical University, if you could see them under a microscope, you’d see a crystalline appearance, with a finish that is structurally strong and rigid.

When understanding the physical properties of linen, it’s interesting to understand the natural components of flax, which are as follows.

• Cellulose (65-85%) - a glucose polymer which, as reported by R. M. Rowell in the American Journal of Food and Nutrition in 2015, creates long crystalline strands, or microfibrils. It's the cellulose that helps linen to last for many years and remain wear-resistant. 

• 10% hemicelluloses - or polysaccharides, which as Faugeras et al describe in their 2012 research on Free-lignin cellulose, contribute to linen's very slight elasticity, plus 3% pectins (polysaccharides that support bonding).

• 2% lignins - which aren't fully understood, but believed to protect plants against biological attacks and to support their structure 

• 2% waxes and lipids (that create the soft feel and slight water resistance). 

• Around 1-2% of trace elements, particularly calcium and silica, help linen stay strong and resist heat.

According to the CELC, this sturdy finish helps to create a durable, stiff fabric that is naturally 30% stronger than cotton, but which can feel slightly textured when you first unbox your lovely new linen piece.

The good news is that if your new linen dress, shirt, or blazer feels a little stiff or even slightly rough against the skin, it’s a strong indicator that you have a high-quality piece made from 100% linen.  (And note that 100% European linens are believed to be the highest quality.)

Conversely, linen blends are typically combined with synthetic fibers that add some immediate softness or “slip”, but result in a lower-quality fabric that isn’t breathable or designed to get better with every wear. You’ll see these commonly advertised as linen, but check the label and price point, and you’ll find other materials such as viscose or polyester.

If you’ve invested in the highest-quality 100% Baltic linen (such as the fabric we use at Son de Flor), don’t worry if it doesn’t feel smooth at first. Linen is actually incredibly kind to the skin, and it will get softer with every wear and with the appropriate care. 

Why does linen soften with use? Because of mechanical friction and the breakdown of plant pectins, which we’ll discuss in more detail below.

 

Does linen get softer over time?

Yes, linen does get softer over time, due to the effects of wear and care, as follows.

• Soft but not stretchy: Pure 100% linen is strong, rigid, and inelastic, and its high-cellulose fibers can only stretch by about 2%, as reported by Gunta Zommere at Riga Technical University in 2014. It softens over time, but doesn’t stretch. 

• Linen flax is also slightly irregular. As you wear and wash linen, the physical agitation and gentle abrasion help the yarns to soften gently. Over time, these very stiff fibers start to bend, flex, and generally settle, and this creates the lovely soft drape in quality linen clothing.

• Pectin reduction: Linen also contains pectin, a natural carbohydrate that acts like a form of glue in plants to help provide their structure. Over time, that crisp and stiff feel you notice in a new linen garment will start to lessen, as the pectin starch dissolves in the wash. This creates gentle fluidity in your linen clothes over time.

• Laundry friction: When you launder linen, its hollow and irregular fibers rub against each other. Microscopic strands of cellulose (also called fibrils). These bundled fibrils start to separate and smooth, which, in time, creates that buttery soft feel and luxury look of quality 100% linen.

How many washes for linen to soften? Around 3-5, and by ten washes, it will have a lovely buttery soft quality as the textile strands continue to relax (so long as you follow proper care instructions, which we explain below.)

 

How to soften linen?

Asking how to soften linen clothes? Let’s look at washing techniques, correct drying, and the right use of natural softeners. One of the best ways to soften linen fabric is to get these stages right.

Washing Linen the Right Way

When you consider how to soften linen clothing, start with its laundry. The right approach will gently soften the material for that soft feel and draped finish. Follow these tips.

• Wash linen in warm water with a gentle detergent. Avoid hot water because it can cause stains to bond permanently with the flax (especially protein-based stains, including blood). On the first wash in particular, hot water can also cause linen to shrink very slightly (by about 3-5%, or up to 10% if the linen is raw and hasn’t been pre-shrunk, as described by Swinburne University of Technology.)

• Skip harsh chemicals like bleach or optical brighteners. If you need a little extra cleaning power, try dabbing diluted white wine vinegar for wine, tea, coffee, or fruit stains. For grease and oil, sprinkle baking soda or corn starch to absorb the fat particles, leave for 30 minutes, and then cold spot wash with a drop of dish soap.

• Choose a gentle cycle that won’t excessively spin the linen at high speeds. This will avoid deep creasing and temporary misshaping.

• Wash your linens separately from other clothing and give them plenty of space in the washing machine to move. 

Air drying vs tumble drying

The question of air drying vs tumble drying isn’t always purely theoretical. Sometimes the weather simply doesn’t allow us to hang our linens on the line, to dance in the breeze on a sunny day! So keep these tips in mind.

Air drying

Air drying is ideal for linen. After laundering correctly to soften scratchy linen, hang your pieces on the line or where a gentle breeze and sunlight can dry them the traditional way. UV light also helps to brighten linen and keep it fresh. 

It’s one reason you can simply hang and air-dry linen clothing between wears for a gentle refresh when washing isn’t needed. (Just be mindful that darker linen pieces are best stored away from UV light, as they can fade over time. Conversely, white linen benefits from regular UV exposure for natural brightening.)

Another good way to dry linen is to lay it flat, ideally on an absorbent towel and in an area with good air flow. You’ll be amazed at how quickly natural linen does dry, and this exceptional ability to regain its cool, dry feel is just one reason you feel so fresh and comfortable in linen garments. 

Tumble drying

Asking how to soften itchy linen in the tumble dryer? Generally, we don’t recommend it. However, there are exceptions. 

Some tumble drying machines have a gentle cycle that is designed for delicate fabrics such as linen. If your manufacturer's guide confirms that a linen cycle is present, make sure you remove your linen before it’s completely dry to avoid deep wrinkles and stiffness, and then air-dry it to finish. 

You can also add a couple of wool drying balls (or tennis balls at a pinch) to the drum to help gently soften linen clothes during the drying cycle.

You may also find that the tumble dryer works for flat linens such as tablecloths, sheets, square scarves and aprons, as these aren’t tailored to fit a defined shape in the same way. Again, though, remove these flat pieces before they are completely dry, shake them out and let them air dry, if possible, to finish. 

It won’t take long before they are ready to fold in your cupboard or roll into fabric storage bags.

Using natural fabric softeners

Another good way to soften stiff linen fabric is with a natural softener like vinegar or baking soda. As an added bonus, these ingredients are natural and kinder to the environment than chemical preparations.

Using vinegar to soften linen

Simply add half a cup of distilled white vinegar (not the dark-coloured cooking variety!) to the fabric softener compartment of your washing machine during its final cycle. 

The vinegar will break down any mineral deposits in the water and also remove any leftover detergent from linen, which can otherwise dry stiff. Alternatively, soften linen by soaking a cup of white distilled vinegar in a full basin or sink of water, and let it sit for 15 to 30 minutes.

Using baking soda to soften linen clothes

Heard that you can soften linen with baking soda? Indeed. Fill a sink or clean bucket with cold water and add a cup of baking soda. Add your linen clothes and leave them overnight, before rinsing and washing them as usual. 

You can also add a scoop of baking soda to your laundry detergent to boost its cleaning power.

Because baking soda is an alkaline mineral, it neutralizes any detergent or mineral buildup that can otherwise stiffen flax fibers and prevent them from performing in the way that they should.

These methods are particularly good if you live in an area of the world with chalky water or other high mineral levels, which can leave deposits on linen. They’re both eco-friendly options that keep damaging chemicals out of the environment. 

Some commercial linen stain removers are also available with ‘greener’ ingredients for conscious consumers. 

Can you soften linen with a baking soda and vinegar mix?

You can’t soften linen with a baking soda and vinegar mix because vinegar is acidic, and baking soda is alkaline, so together they neutralize each other and cancel out their benefits. Just choose one or the other.

 

How to soften scratchy or itchy linen?

To soften scratchy or itchy linen clothes, wash them gently in warm water with a natural chemical-free detergent and add a natural fabric softener, such as a cup of white wine vinegar or a scoop of baking powder to the linen detergent.

If you’re wondering how to soften scratchy linen when it’s brand new, again, it may benefit from a wash. Some linen fabrics may contain tiny particles of the flax stem and husk if they are sold without being stonewashed or prepared before tailoring. This can create the scratchy, itchy feeling that we often associate with brand-new linen before it washes and wears in, and softens.

At Son de Flor, we prewash our 100% Baltic linen before we carefully tailor and hand-finish each piece in our collection to ensure these tiny strands are safely removed. 

If your skin is particularly sensitive, you’ll also be pleased to know that linen protects it over time, thanks to its naturally antibacterial and “skin kind” properties. 

However, for those first wears, another way to soften a linen dress is to add a protective petticoat, just for the first couple of wears, as it begins to relax and soften. Linen layers incredibly well and will help you to naturally regulate your temperature, whether it’s warm or cold. Even better, its breathable nature ensures you always feel comfortable, without that “sticky” feeling you often get with manmade materials like viscose and polyester.

 

How to soften specific linen clothes?

To soften specific linen clothes, wash gently, use natural softeners, iron or steam carefully and store the piece carefully, either hung, folded or rolled in a fabric bag.

How to soften a linen shirt?

To soften a linen shirt, focus on maintaining the shape. At Son de Flor, our linen shirts for women are carefully tailored with handmade-quality finishing. Focus on the gentle care approach mentioned above and use a low-temperature iron on damp fabric to help soften the fibers and shape the piece.  

You can choose linen shirt styles that are naturally soft too, such as full sleeve styles or looser fits, which are less tailored and immediately soft and flowing against the skin. All 100% linen is naturally breathable, but these soft and loose fit styles amplify that cool and fresh feeling by allowing plenty of air to circulate.

How to soften a linen dress?

To soften a linen dress, focus on gentle care as before and consider using a steamer to gently decompress the flax yarn after washing and shape the piece. A steamer can be especially handy if you’ve invested in full circle linen dresses, like the ones we sell at Son de Flor. 

Choose light fabrics and styles that gently skim the body, too, if you like that looser feeling and flowing movement. For example, linen wrap dresses are easy to adjust, and at Son de Flor, our linen dresses also have soft bodices for extra comfort and adjustable waistbands.

And yes, our full circle skirt linen dresses and skirts allow maximum twirling, which will only make those linens softer over time, so go ahead and have fun!

Softening other linen clothing

When considering how to soften linen clothing in general, follow the methods above. Linen pants tend to soften quickly because they have plenty of mechanical friction due to their more fitted shape and fabric agitation during wear. 

With linen skirts, you can always add a favorite linen petticoat that is pre-loved and already soft, just to give you a little extra comfort (and beautiful volume) while your skirt relaxes during its initial wears and washes. 

Generally speaking, all types of linen clothing benefit from the linen softening methods we described above. These same methods also work perfectly to soften linen sheets, linen tablecloths, linen square scarves (such as our Palisandra scarf collection), and other types of household linen, including aprons. 

 

Mistakes to avoid when softening linen

Mistakes to avoid when softening linen include using harsh chemicals, excessive heat or aggressive washing methods that damage delicate linen strands. 

Harsh chemicals such as bleach or biological heavy-duty detergents are damaging to natural flax yarn and will prematurely weaken or roughen it, preventing the natural softness that is otherwise achieved over time.

High heat, such as with an iron, stresses linen, causing it to warp and constrict. It can also lead to premature breakage. These all shorten the lifespan of your linen garments and prevent them from achieving their long-lasting, soft and beautiful finish.

Similarly, aggressive washing can cause linen to become rough and out of shape, leading to warping and breaking at the fiber level. If you want your beautiful and luxurious linen wear to last, it’s vital to follow the right gentle care instructions that we described above.

 

Why linen gets better with time

Pure linen gets better with time because it’s a natural, luxurious fabric that is designed to soften and become increasingly comfortable and more beautiful with every wash and wear.

The key is to choose high-quality 100% European linen made with expert tailoring so that each garment continues to improve without losing its shape or durability, such as the pieces you’ll find at Son de Flor.

Quality linen with traceable sourcing is the starting point to softness, supported with ongoing gentle care and patience. Treat linen like the natural, high-end fabric it is, and it will continue to look better, feel softer and whisper its premium elegance with every wear.

Frequently asked questions

Does scratchy linen get softer?

Scratchy linen gets softer if you choose quality 100% European linen rather than composite fabrics, and buy from a specialist company that prewashes its linen before tailoring for exacting results (such as Son de Flor). 

Beyond this, to soften scratchy linen clothes, follow the vinegar or baking soda results above for fast results and then commit to gentle care and several wears to begin to notice a real difference. 

Is vinegar or baking soda better for softening linen?

Vinegar and baking soda are both good for softening linen. The main thing is to avoid traditional fabric softeners, as these coat linen with chemical and wax-based polymers that create a feel of softness. 

On linen, this unnatural coating prevents linen flax from naturally softening, and it also compromises the natural moisture-wicking and breathability of linen. Essentially, chemical fabric softeners are a short-term fix only, and they degrade your linen in the long run.

How long does it take for linen to soften?

It takes just a few wears for linen to soften, especially if you are wearing a high-quality linen garment made with pure linen flax. In three to four wears, you will start to notice a difference. 

This softening effect will then only continue with time, gentle care and repeated wears and your high-quality linen garments will continue to look and feel better over time, as true investment pieces that are completely the opposite of throwaway fast fashion.